![]() ![]() I kept the temperature low on it when I first installed it for energy savings and because I have kids in the house. It’s the backup resistive units that draw about 4,500W when they turn on that really suck down the juice. So you could nearly fit 4 of those on a 15 amp circuit. The heat pump itself only draws about 425W when it turns on. Sense detected my heat pump in about 30 days and the backup resistive units in about 60 days, so I’ve been able to be slightly obsessive in observing how it behaves. Your use-case seems to be what the 15amp version was trying to solve for.Īnd everything I’m writing on the 15amp version is me inferring what engineers might be doing based on my experience with the 240V/30amp AO smith version. How are you monitoring your usage, through the unit’s app, DCM, smart plug, or some other way? Only sweat copper pipe once though and don’t have the proper tools there, so that could get interesting. This is already a much more involved process, but one I’m confident I could do. I had fun running the 220 for my new dryer, but I was going a much shorter distance through an open wall with only studs in the way. I’ll also need to install another basement drain as there’s no place in-room for the condensation to run, and Rheem says these units can make up to 2 gallons per day, so using a bucket sounds like a bad idea when I forget to check it for two days. ![]() There’s also a marginal savings on the unit itself. It’s just two of us, and a dog, right now, and we never run dishwasher, washer, shower, etc. The specs for the 15 amp Richmond version (10E50-HP4D 694061) give me and my wife 53 gallons for the first hour, and 16 per hour after that. If I go 30 amp, I also need to run new conduit the same distance, whereas I can easily fit three more 14 gauge in some 1/2” conduit that runs nearby. By going with the 15 amp version, that’ll let me use 14 gauge wire instead of 8, and I’m going about 35 feet, maybe even more like 40 or 45 as I haven’t precisely measured it yet, and with wire prices, that comes out to $60 in savings just on wire. I don’t want to use the two the Sense is on until I get an electric car, somewhere between next year and 20 years from now. The issue is that I only have one unused breaker right now. So if you’re running a dedicated circuit already, I’d still recommend going with the 220v/30 amp versions.Įverything I’ve been reading says dedicated circuit, and I certainly agree with that. I expect for a 110v/15amp water heater, you’d still need it on a dedicated circuit. ![]() Here’s hoping that product line can make its way around the states. I just thought I’d share that Rheem news as it was only announced 3 weeks ago. Hopefully this means that more people can make the easier transition away from natural gas while also being able to glean exacting usage from their heat pump water heater. I’m guessing that means California changed their electric and/or plumbing code to allow for a plug-in replacement model, but that seems to confirm that there’s no safety reason why a 120v heat pump water heater couldn’t be plugged in. RHEEM® INTRODUCES 120 VOLT PROTERRA® PLUG-IN HEAT PUMP WATER HEATERS That press release specifically mentions California multiple times. However, Rheem now makes an official plug-in 15 amp, 50 gallon, heat pump water heater. Of course there’s the argument to be made that an electric double oven doesn’t get swapped out often and that both plugs-in and isn’t wired to its own cutoff switch, but I don’t think one can argue with the NEC. Generally, codes seem to say that since water heaters are an appliance that doesn’t get swapped out often, you hard wire it in to a shut off switch. I’ve been reading up on electric codes, and while it sounds like some southern states like Texas and Florida used to have plug-in water heaters, that is no longer a thing. Since it’s 15 amp, it could even go on a smart plug. Richmond has a 50 gallon, 15amp model, that would be a fairly 1-for-1 swap to our 50 gallon nat gas model. On a form for certain energy reheated, it looks like Rheem makes the Richmond line since Menards doesn’t carry many brand names, like Rheem, much at all. We used to vent, and waste the heat, from our natural gas dryer to outside, and now we reuse our heat and just pump some water down the drain.Īnyways, Menards’ (a big box hardware store in the Midwest) brand of water heaters is Richmond. I’ve been researching heat pump water heaters again after the success of getting a heat pump dryer. ![]()
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